As Flow Blue continues to gain popularity among new collectors
the knowledge and recognition of New Flow Blue versus antique Flow
Blue becomes very important. There are numerous styles of "new" Flow
Blue on the market, many of which are very attractive pieces!
However, one should not pay antique prices for "new" Flow Blue. I
have observed NUMEROUS pieces on eBay advertised as "antique" or
"suggested" to be antique. This page will attempt to provide
examples of "new" Flow Blue currently found in the market place.
Please note the following photos:
The following article is taken from the FBICC's Blue Berry Notes:
"NEW" FLOW BLUE
by Ellen Hill
We have been concerned for quite some time about the
proliferation of so-called New Flow Blue. There is nothing wrong in
buying a piece of china that was manufactured recently - it is wrong
to represent these pieces as being "old" or "antique" and charging
accordingly. The extreme popularity of buying china on-line through
eBay or other auctions has been causing problems. I have had several
telephone calls from former FBICC members and current members who
have been "burned" -- buying china they thought was old, which in
some cases was proven otherwise. The Flow Blue International
Collectors Club nor its Education Committee can police the Internet
or eBay all we can do is try to educate our members so they can do
intelligent buying, both at conventions and on the net. "New" Flow
Blue comes in several flavors:
1) Pieces made by the Blakney Pottery Ltd in England -- these are
usually marked "VICTORIA" or "ROMANTIC" or "Flo Blue" or M.J.B.
(Michael J. Bailey). Many pieces are marked IRONSTONE/STAFFORDSHIRE/ENGLAND.
Marks may include Royal Coat of Arms in various styles. There are
pictures of many of these pieces in Flow Blue China by Norma Jean
Hoener and pictures of the marks in the Encyclopedia of Marks by A &
D Kowalsky. These pieces date from the 1970’s onward.
2) So-called "Green Flow Blue" these pieces are made in the Orient
and are characterized by the greenish cast of the background. Many
of these pieces have no mark or backstamp and sometimes have a tiny,
easily removed oval sticker that reads Made/in/China.
3) Pieces which are marked to resemble T. Rathbone & Co. (TR&Co)
wares. Many of these pieces look quite like late Victorian Flow
Blue, they have fooled several collectors. The English advertising
calls these: "THE FIRST PIECES FROM A COMPLETELY NEW COLLECTORS
RANGE OF FLOW BLUE ORIGINAL ANTIQUE RECREATIONS"!! They feature
various jardinières, vases, jugs, chamber pots, a teapot, two
plates, a cheese dish, a leaf dish, and a set of graduated jugs. The
marks are similar to that used by Rathbone.

4) A set of graduated jugs or a single jug having marks very similar to Doulton
marks used 1891 - 1902 were recently sold on eBay and the buyer(s) questioned
the age of the pieces after purchase. The pitchers were variously described as
being marked "Victoriaware/Ironstone" or "Norbury"
pattern by Doulton. The pictures above show one of the "new Norbury
jugs", on the left, the "new mark" and an "old Norbury ewer"
(rounded form on the right). The two patterns are definitely not the
same. The Norbury pattern is shown in Petra Williams Flow Blue China
II, page 177.
When you buy pieces sight unseen you are taking a risk -- the
quality of the pictures may not be the best and you can’t touch or
feel the piece. Before you buy an expensive piece of Flow Blue:
1) Make sure the seller will fully refund your money if you are not
satisfied for any reason. You do not want to get into a slanging
match trying to prove that the piece is "new".
2) Inquire about an online auction escrow service -- a third party
holds the money (for a fee) until the buyer inspects the item.
3) When inspecting items before purchase, in a shop, a "live"
auction, or on-line check:
a) If a piece looks "too good to be true" - it probably is - get an
expert opinion. On many of the "new" pieces the blue seems to be
blurred rather than flown.
b) Check the bottom of a jug or pitcher for wear, stains, etc. A
very white, clean bottom often implies new.
c) If the piece is listed as perfect or has only a flaw "in the
making" it may be an indication of a new piece - it is highly
unlikely that a set of 1900’s jugs wouldn’t have any tiny chips,
lines, etc. Gilding often looks too good with no wear.
d) If a piece is marked, check an appropriate mark book. (It may
just be a coincidence. but the mark on "new" pieces is often badly
blurred.)
e) If the piece is unmarked, check to see if a mark has been removed
or painted over.
f) If a piece has metal work, such as a biscuit barrel, check it
carefully -- 1900’s metal trim was usually silver plate over brass
or a pewter-like metal. If silver plated, the genuine old piece most
often has either worn until some of the brass shows through or has
been replated. The "new" silver has a grayish cast, is not as
"silvery" looking and seems to be thickly applied. There seems to be
only one style of finial on new "silver" tops.
g) If a piece has a wicker/bamboo handle, such as a biscuit barrel,
check the handle -- it is highly unlikely that a 1900’s jar would
have a clean, perfect handle or that the handle would have been
replaced.
Some of the above items may be hard to check online -- at least it
gives you some idea of the questions to ask. Remember, at a live
auction (including the FBICC auction at the convention) pieces are
sold "AS IS" and it is up to the buyer to inspect for authenticity.